Wednesday, January 30, 2019

3D Puzzle Block Scroll Saw Pattern.

This is a long and very graphic intensive post. You may need to wait for the images to all load if you have a slow connection.
 Wait for the animation to load.

This is a challenging project to cut but if you take your time it makes a neat novelty puzzle. The challenge for newer scrollers will be to keep the blade 90 degrees as you make the cuts in the thick wood.

It is common for new scrollers to have a tough time cutting thick wood. They will push the blade too hard and warp the cut. This is a project where that error will make the pieces not slide apart. 

To avoid this problem here are a few tips. Let the blade have time to make the cut. Don't push the cut. Don't apply side pressure to the blade. Keep a light grip on the wood blank. Make sure the blade tension is high enough. Many new scrollers under tension the blade. That won't work for this project.

The USB catalog order form has been turned back on for those waiting to place an order. See below if you need details.

Notice that some of the center tabs will be cut away. This is normal. 

This puzzle will not hold up to rough handling. It is not suited for children. It is more of a novelty cut than a child's toy. The interior tabs are where the puzzle is weakest. If you don't get an accurate cut
these tabs may become too small and break easily.  

The puzzle makes 12 pieces. If you can cut this project in a hardwood it will last longer but it will be more difficult to keep the 90-degree cuts accurate.

If you are not familiar with compound cutting on the scroll saw, here is how you apply the pattern. The black dot is the spot to drill the entry hole. Cut one side then flip the piece and cut the second side.

I like to use a compound cut jig to hold everything together as I cut. For this pattern, it is essential to use a jig or a clamp.

Interior Veining:

I had a question today that made me think I should do a post to explain this technique.  When you look at a scroll saw pattern you will sometimes see fine black pattern lines that end inside the pattern without cutting anything out. In scroll saw speak this is called veining. I am often asked if these are drawn on the wood after the pattern is cut. No. the veins are cut with the blade. You cut to the end of the vein then back the blade out. These veins are intended to add detail to the finished project.

Most of the time these veins will start on the edge of the pattern and end inside the pattern. Occasionally you will see what are called interior veins. Interior veins start inside the pattern and end inside the pattern. These interior veins need a starter hole drilled to insert the blade.

The question today was"How do I hide the starter hole?"

That is the question I will answer here.

The image aboce shows an interior vein. We need to drill a hole at the beginning of the vein so we can insert the blade.

Most drills and drill presses can handel a 1/16" drill bit. These bits are pretty small and we can use them with okay results but not great results.

This is the size of the entry hole compared to the vein we need to cut. As you can probably guess this hole is going to stand out in the final project. It might be okay but we need better.

There are drill bits called micro drill bits. They are very tiny bits and require a special drill chuck to hold them. They are fractions of a millimeter for some of the smallest ones.  

The hole made by this micro bit is smaller and easier to hide.

In this image, I made a straight cut away from the 1/16" drill bit. If we leave it like this we may not be happy with the results.

One technique that sometimes can minimize the abrupt look of the larger entry hole is to taper it away from the hole into the vein. You will have to be the judge as to if this looks better or worse. It often depends on the pattern and what is surrounding the cut.

Here is the vein cut straight away from the microdrill entry hole. Even without tapering you can see that the look is much better. If you taper this hole it will almost disappear.

There is a negative to using micro drill bits for veining. The blade has to be able to fit through the micro hole. For this cut I had to use a #1 blade to cut the vein. Smaller blade means the vein is thinner and may not stand out as much as you like. It's a tradoff.

I removed the pattern so you could see the actual cut. 1/16" drill bit and straight cut. 

1/16" drill bit with a tapered cut. Maybe better. Maby worse. Depends. 

Microdrill bit with #1 blade. Probably good enough for most projects. If we taper this it wil probably be fine. Let's take it a step further.

Save the sawdust from the board you are cutting. Place in on a piece of blue painters tape and put a spot of wood glie next to it.

Lightly mix until you get a putty consistency. Fill the entry holes with the mixture.

This is the putty applied to the larger entry hole. From any distance, the hole will nearly disappear. If we apply this to the micro hole it will disappear. Depending on the finish you apply to the wood you may see the hole contrast a little more than this unfinished picture.

I have turned the order form for the USB Catalogs back on.
If you have been waiting to place an order you can do that now.

Sometime next week I will change the shipping cost to reflect the post office price hike. shipping will go to $4. Sorry but the USPS need the money.:)

USB Pattern Catalog ready to ship... Supplies limited. $23 plus $3.50 Shipping U.S. Only....

For those of you who would like to see the USB catalog before you buy here is a video demonstration.

I want to make it clear that the USB Catalog can only ship to the U.S. I am receiving several international orders and I cannot fill them at this time. The DVD does ship to several countries and I will soon have a file download option that will work internationally.

Okay. The first day of the new USB Pattern catalog went very well. I completely sold out and still have many orders to fill. If you did not receive an invoice then you will be in the next batch. No worries because I have many more USB drives on the way. They should be in this week. If you are waiting for an invoice make sure you occasionally check your spam folder. 

You will not make payment until your drive is ready to ship. I will send an email invoice for payment. When payment is received I will ship the drive. I will hold the order for three days for payment after the invoice is sent. If you will be sending a check for payment I will ship the drive after I receive the check. Please let me know you will be paying my check when you receive the invoice so I can hold the drive.

In case you missed the announcement the other day, here is what this is. Every year I put all of the patterns in my online catalog on a DVD. These have sold well but more and more people don't have DVD drives on their newer computers. I have decided to add a USB drive so you will have options.

This does not replace the DVD. It will still be available. You can order the DVD below.

I am still working on a file download option. Hopefully coming soon.....

Remember. You do not need to buy this USB catalog to have access to my patterns. These are the same patterns that are in my free online catalog. This USB catalog is for those who wish to have a backup of my catalog for offline use. If this blog ever shuts down you will have the patterns. You can use the USB catalog at club meetings or on vacation when the internet is not available. 

$12 per sheet of 12 coins plus $3.50 shipping
Inlay with a 1" Forstner Bit.
The perfect way to sign your work.


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