Sunday, May 26, 2019

56 Chevy Scroll Saw Pattern.

I am not a car guy so I don't do too many car patterns. When I do design one I will get email from someone telling me the bumper is two inches too long or the gas cap is the wrong size. :) There are guys out there who know cars like the back of their hand. I love that kind of passion. I had a good friend who would almost have tears in his eyes when he talked about his 1964 GTO. 

This 1956 Chevy pattern was a request. I hope it is close enough to make the 1956 Chevy enthusiast happy. I included two pictures so you can see what it would look like with and without a backer board.

Most patterns are a trade-off between accuracy and cutability. I tried to add just enough detail to look good but not be too difficult to cut. 

Special Message to

GREG LAVALLEE: I received your order and money order for the signature coins. I need more information to complete the order. Please email me. 

Applying Patterns to Wood:

There is more than one way to get your patterns on the board you want to cut. Most scrollers will find a way that is comfortable for them and stick with it. As long as the pattern stays on the wood and gives you a clear line to cut then you are good. 

Here are some options if you are new or possibly looking for another method from what you currently use.

Many years ago it was common to trace the pattern on to the board using carbon paper. We would often make our own carbon paper using a lead pencil. In those days no one had a printer at home and a trip to the copy shop was a lot of trouble. We would trace the pattern right out of the pattern book.
It worked but the traced line was often poor quality and the time to trace was long. It would also ruin the original after a few traces.

When making copies/prints at home became more common we started making copies of the patterns from magazines and pattern books. We would then glue the pattern print directly to the board. We would use whatever glue we had handy from rubber cement to stick glue to white Elmer's glue. This gave us great line quality. Some of the glues held better than others.

One of the early problems with applying the pattern directly to the wood was getting the pattern off when you finished the cut. If the glue was really strong and the fretwork was delicate you could easily break the piece. It could also take several minutes to rub or sand the pattern off. 

Scrollers started using clear box tape over or under the paper pattern. At first, it was just a way to help hold the pattern in place. We also realized that if we put the tape under the pattern the pattern was much easier to remove. Another surprise that we found was that the glue from the tape helped lubricate the scroll saw blades. This made the blades run cooler and last longer. It would also eliminate the scorching of the edge of the board in species like cherry. Those scorches were hard to sand away so that was a real bonus. 

The clear box tape works well but it does leave a bit of glue residue on the board after you peel it off. If you don't get that cleaned or sanded off it can alter your finish.

At some point, we started using blue painters tape under the pattern. The blue tape had all the benefits of clear box tape but was even easier to remove and leaves zero residues behind.

We also found that spray adhesives worked better and were faster than stick glue or liquid glues. I still find a lot of scrollers who don't like spray adhesives. They don't like the chemicals in the air and some spray adhesives work better than others. They are also much more expensive. I only use spray adhesive but I understand the objections some people have.

Another tape option is Peel and Stick clear shelf lining paper. It comes in 12 inch wide rolls and works well. You don't have to apply several strips like you do with blue tape. Just cut the length you need and apply it to the wood. I use it sometimes but it does have a slightly more likelihood of lifting while you cut. It is really important that you get any dust off the board before you apply the peel and stick. On the positive side, it comes off very easily. It is also cheaper than the blue painter's tape.

My current method is to print the pattern on my printer. I apply blue painters tape or Peel and Stick to the board. If the board is really wide I like the Peel and Stick better because it covers more area quicker. I apply spray adhesive to the back of the pattern. I use 3M General Purpose 45 spray adhesive. I have tested several brands and this works best for me. Some people will tell you to wait 60 seconds to let the glue tack up a little before you apply it. That is not necessary because I am applying the pattern to the tape and not the board. I want it to stick very tight to the tape.  

To help prevent a mess from overspray of the glue I have a pullout shelf that I cover with a sacrificial sheet of hardboard. I place the pattern on the board and apply the glue. I can then close it out of the way. When the sacrificial board gets too contaminated I just cut another one. 

Spray glue shelf with sacrificial board pulled out.  

Notice all the overspray of the glue on the board. I have to replace the board every few months. It is just screwed to the top of the slide out shelf so it only takes a few minutes to swap out. The last time I swapped it out I tried something different. I covered the sacrificial board with blue painters tape. I'm hoping I can just peel the tape off and have a clean board. If that works I'll just cover it with tape again. 

Spray glue shelf closed and out of my way. 

These are just some options for you to try. Some are more expensive than others. Some will work better for you than others. The only option above that I would discourage is using carbon paper and tracing the pattern. The other options just work much better.

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Products for your consideration:

Every Scrollsaw Workshop Pattern from 2007-2018 in DVD