Monday, August 26, 2019

Purse/Pocket Hand Mirror Scroll Saw Pattern.

This project should make a great Christmas stocking stuffer. Every lady needs a mirror in their purse. Guys, I bet if you make one of these you are going to be asked to make more.

You will need 1/8" and 1/4" thick wood for this project. I know that can be difficult to come by. You could easily substitute Baltic birch plywood if that is easier to find.

The decoration on the mirror case can easily be changed in Inkscape. One option would be to add the initials of the person receiving the mirror. Just find a stencil font and position in centers over the mirror.

There are a couple of challenges with this project. The first challenge is cutting the Acrylic Mirror round and clean. There is instruction in the pattern showing the easiest technique for getting a clean cut on the plastic. You can cut it with your scroll saw.

This is a 12" X 12" sheet. Several mirrors can be made from one sheet.

The second challenge is getting everything glued up with a nice sliding fit for the mirror. After you glue the pieces together test fit the slide. If it is tight, sand the back of the mirror holder until it slides in nicely. 

You can't easily adjust the roundness of the mirror after it is cut so you need to be accurate. If you try to substitute a pre-cut 2.5" mirror, just make sure it is not thicker than 1/8".

The upper right of this picture shows the 12" X 12" acrylic mirror. The finish of this mirror is nearly identical to a glass mirror.

Selecting a scroll saw blade for a project:

I have written about this before but new scrollers come along every week so I want to touch on it again.

One very common email I receive(Twice this week alone) is, "Why don't you include the type of blade you used in the pattern?"

I intentionally don't recommend a blade for most projects because it is really not necessary. I am a minimalist when it comes to scroll saw blades. I cut 95% of every project with either a #3 scroll reverse or a #5 scroll reverse blade. 

I have just about every type and brand of scroll saw blades in my shop and the majority of them never get touched. There are special projects that do require a specialty blade. Cutting metal or plastic needs the correct blade. When I cut jigsaw puzzles I need a specialty blade or a small blade.

 I will occasionally use a spiral blade for a large portrait style pattern. On rare ocasions, I will need to cut very thick and dense wood so I may use a #7. I normally just avoid very dense wood.

These exceptions happen but not that often for the types of project I design. If you regularly cut specialty projects you may need other choices than me.

If you download one of my patterns and I do not mention a blade choice then you can assume I used either a #3 or #5 scroll reverse. 

I won't go into detail here but let me say this. I don't choose the blade based on how efficient or fast it will cut the wood. I select the blade based on the pattern. Charts that show a list of blades and what thickness of wood they are good for, is nearly useless to me. I don't care that a #9 blade will cut thick wood faster and more efficient if it won't cut the pattern I am using. I need to be able to make the turns and get into small internal cuts.

 I have rarely ever heard anyone mention this in books. They all seem to go by the charts. That just has never worked for me.

$12 per sheet of 12 coins plus $3.50 shipping
Inlay with a 1" Forstner Bit.
The perfect way to sign your work.

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