Monday, January 27, 2020

Kobe Bryant 1978-2020 Tribute Scroll Saw Pattern.

 Download Below

Kobe Bryant, 1978-2020. Kobe and his daughter Ginna died tragically yesterday while flying to basketball practice for Gianna. Their helicopter with nine on board went down in a field and there were no survivors. 

The sports world was shocked by the news. Kobe was a personality who was larger than sports. He was known all over the world. Millions of young boys and girls looked up to Kobe, the basketball player. His family looked up to him as, dad. For the family to lose both the father and oldest daughter in a single event is just heartbreaking.

I know that there are many Kobe/Lakers fans who are hurting today. This pattern is a tribute to Kobe, the basketball player. Prayers to the Bryant family.


How long should a scroll saw blade last? How often do they break?

Scroll saw blades get replaced for two primary reasons. They get dull or break. 

As a new scroller, it is difficult to know if you are breaking blades too often. If you are breaking lots of blades, is it operator error, saw malfunction, or poor blade quality?

How do you know if the blade is dull and needs to be replaced? You hate to waste money.

These are very common questions even for some experienced sawyers. There are some basic answers to these questions but there are also several variables.

Let's start by discussing how long a scroll saw blade will cut before it gets dull. This is the most common question and also not easy to answer because there are variables. Some materials will dull the blade at a much faster rate than others. 

If you cut Baltic birch plywood you will see shorter life of the blade. The glue layers will dull the teeth much quicker than the same thickness of solid wood. So how do we answer this question?

The blade is dull when you see the symptoms of a dull blade. If you have to push the blade harder than when the blade was new then the blade is starting to get duller. Pushing harder is not the end of the world but then the blade will start drifting off the pattern line easily. That is time to give it to the wastebasket and install a new blade.

Let's talk about saving money. I am a tightwad when it comes to spending money. Scroll saw blades are one item that I pay little to no attention to how many I use. They cost under .25 a piece and the wood I am cutting costs many times more than that. Not to mention the time I put into cutting. I would rather spend a couple more quarters than ruing an expensive piece of hardwood. I replace my blades at the early signs that they are getting dull.

Now for the tougher question. Are you breaking too many blades? If you ask that question then you are probably breaking too many blades. If I am using #1, #3 or $5 blades I might break one blade every few projects. Blades smaller than a #1 will break at a higher rate but you should still be replacing most blades because they are dull and not broken.

It is very rare that a blade brakes because it is poor quality. While some blades are higher quality than others, it is rare that a blade is so bad that it breaks. 

So why do scroll saw blades break?

If you try to push a blade past the point of being dull then you will cause the blade to build up friction heat. This heat will weaken the blade and it might break. The moral of the story is not to push the blade past dull.

You can cut too aggressively and break the blade. Let the blade cut at its natural rate. The blade needs time to remove the sawdust from between the gullets. If the gullets get clogged friction rares its ugly head again and we generate that bad heat. Slow down or be prepared to replace more blades.

A scroll saw that is damaged or out of adjustment can absolutely cause more broken blades. My guess from experience is that this is the most common reason for frequently broken blades. These blades move up and down hundreds of times a minute. Small stresses on the blade add up quickly. If the clamps not properly adjusted or damaged then you can expect broken blades. 

Broken blades caused by the scroll saw are often difficult to troubleshoot. The first step in troubleshooting is to eliminate operator error. Slow down. Make sure you are using the proper blade. Eliminate the material you are cutting from causing the problem. If you are trying to cut metal, stop and try wood. Eliminate the obvious.

After you have eliminated you as the problem, start taking a close look at the clamps. Is the blade aligned between the clamps? Do the clamps feel sloppy or worn? If you are not experienced with this type of troubleshooting then you may need help. 

If you have an entry-level saw then you are probably on your own. Sub $200 saws that are out of warranty are not going to the shop for repair. The cost of repair will almost certainly be too high. 

You may have better luck getting a high-end saw repaired in a shop. They will often troubleshoot over the phone and send you parts. That is actually a good first option. Your saw will be back up and running much faster if you can get the correct parts shipped to you. If you don't have any luck with the self repair then you will need to talk to each vendor about their repair procedures. 

$12 per sheet of 12 coins plus $3.50 shipping
Inlay with a 1" Forstner Bit.
The perfect way to sign your work.

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Products for your consideration:

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Unique Wooden Vases:
Want to create beautiful wooden vases on the scroll saw?
My two "Wooden Vases on the Scroll Saw" books make it easy.

The books are $12 each and available for instant download after purchase. Click for Video Demonstration.

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WEN 3966T 14-Inch Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight

As scrollers, we often need thin boards. The band saw is one step in the process of dimensioning rough lumber. Resawing is the process of splitting a board's thickness. You need a band saw that has the cutting capacity to cut a wide board for efficient resawing. This saw has a cutting depth of 8.85 inches. More is better but this is a good start for a saw under $700.

  • 9.5 amp motor creates cuts up to 8.85 inches deep and 13-3/8 inches wide
  • Uses 100-3/4 inch blades anywhere from 1/8 to 1 inches in size
  • Spacious 21-1/2 x 15-3/4 inch work table bevels up to 45 degrees
  • Operates at two speeds of either 1480 or 3280 FPM
  • Includes a blade tension gauge, a circle cutting guide, a flexible work light, a 3-in-1 dust port, a fence, a 1/2-inch blade, and a miter gauge

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